A couple of euros will get you on to the roof of this 1880 building, now an arts centre hosting exhibitions, lectures and concerts, with a library, shop and cafe too. Anyone familiar with the city will see it spread out before them in a new and intriguing light, for the visitor it’s a fabulous and exhilarating view.

It is easy to grow blasé about tiles while in Lisbon, so many streets and buildings are decorated with them that after a while they almost disappear. Here, at the dedicated museum, are large-scale murals made from tiles – the most spectacular being a 1,300-piece panorama of the city as it was before the 1755 earthquake, including the Madre Deus convent that houses this museum, one of the few still standing from that time. Examples from the 20th century shoe the forms variety, notably a panel of three-dimensional eyes. Should tiles pall, there’s a wildly ornate chapel to explore and a café leading to a deliciously cooling garden.

Set over two floors of an elegant 18896 building selling contemporary furniture and accessories. The original smaller shop is located just around the corner. In addition to chairs and tables, there are smaller items too; a collection of wooden cleaning brushes for teeth, hair vegetables and shoes was one notable highlight.

Chef Bo Bech’s bakery sold just one product, his famous sourdough loaf; it would open at 7am and close when the loaves sold out. Though the bakery is now gone, devotees of Bech’s bread can still enjoy it at his restaurant Geist, where baskets of rustic rolls are served with slabs of butter. Aside from the superlative bread, try inventive offerings such as grilled avocado with green almonds, raw fried black lobster with tomatoes and salted horseradish toffee. And look forward to a pudding afterwards of huge pink candy floss served with coffee.

There is no room for cynicism at this 19th-century amusement park and pleasure garden, which manages to soften the heart of even the grouchiest visitor. There are rickety rollercoasters, sedate gardens, lakes, a pirate ship, a Chinese-inspired temple, restaurants and bars, a stall selling reproductions of Tivoli’s classic mid-century posters, and despite hordes of tourists at busy times, people are civil and friendly. It is delightful on summer evenings, and quite magical on a winter’s night with winding paths lit by twinkling lights.

Modest and slightly shabby in appearance, the defining characteristic of this shop is the tang of whisky in the air, large quantities of which sit in the shop’s own casks growing older and more delicious with each passing day. Buy direct from the casks or chose from a large range of bottles – a daunting task for the novice, but ask politely and advice will be forthcoming. Unless a trip to one of the distilleries is in your itinerary, this is as close to the source as you’re likely to get.