Extract from New Orleans: Good Times.

An attractive old shop, shelves stacked with tins and jars from the old world, Central is now known primarily as home of the definitive muffuletta. A hearty sandwich assemblage of salami, ham, mortadella, provolone and olive salad – a spicy, herby, vinegary mix of chopped green and black olives – all served on a large, circular flat loaf that’s then cut into quarters, of which one is an ample serving. It’s possible to eat in, but better to take it away and give the juices time to soak into the bread.