Looking as if it was floated down to its lakeside position by some superior future civilisation, this is one of a pair of restaurants designed by Patrick Gwynne in 1964, the larger of which, the more outlandish Serpentine Restaurant, was demolished early this century.
The building is something like a modernist big top, with a hexagonal skylight at its centre from which tiles fan out. Outside seating, nestled under the roof’s protective canopy, echoes the geometry of the core. Originally called The Dell, the current more prosaic name reflects its status as a place to rest, eat and drink for the widest possible clientele. Run by Benugo, the food is quite good, with a menu that should have something appeal to most appetites, but it’s the building and location that make it worth the visit.